Overview

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Aside from being “The City of Light” and one of the most visited cities in the world, Paris holds a special place in my heart as my first trip abroad, for my birthday no less.

Recently, I had the opportunity to move back to Paris for a few months and got to explore the city more thoroughly than my first time around.

Paris is a city with layers. I truly think there’s something for everyone here. It’s also a city where you could spend a lifetime exploring and still not see everything there is to see. Bittersweet.

History

What was once a small settlement along the Seine over 2,000 years ago became, during the Middle Ages, the political, economic, and cultural heart of France. It also played an important role in major historical events like the French Revolution. It has undergone extensive modernization in the last few centuries that has turned it into the beautiful city we recognize today.

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Culture

Parisians are well-known for quiet, effortless elegance, being well-dressed for any occasion, and a certain je ne sais quoi. There is a high value placed on the arts and music, as well as enjoying life in the moment.

A leisurely pace is integral to Parisian culture. You’ll find that meals are savored and enjoyed over hours, and walks are enjoyed as an unrushed promenade. The café is also a central part of Parisian life, as both a hub for socializing and relaxing on your own. Go for the fabulous espresso, stay for the people-watching.

Politeness and respect are also highly valued in France. The French have a reputation, in Paris especially, for being rude and closed-off, but I’ve found that this is often not true. When you enter any store, always say ‘bonjour’ — you’ll find courtesy tends to go a long way in Paris.


Language

French is the official language of France and the primary language spoken throughout the country. English is also widely spoken in the city. In tourist areas, many locals will switch to English when speaking with non-native French speakers.

There are also communities of Arabic speakers (especially the Moroccan dialect), Asian languages such as Vietnamese and Mandarin, as well as Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese spoken by student and immigrant populations.

Food + Drink

French cuisine is world-renowned and is often considered the basis for many Western fine dining traditions. I know it for its emphasis on high-quality ingredients, as well as a liberal use of butter, meats, and cheeses. It can also vary greatly by region, but wherever you are in the country, you’re likely to find a great meal.

I would say my favorite ‘meal’ in Paris was a simple picnic of local meats, cheeses, fruits, and a fresh baguette, usually paired with wine. While French cuisine can have complex flavor profiles and intricate recipes for delicious meals, there is also a simplicity to some recipes that is comforting, too.


Must‑Try Dishes

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Steak-frites

A classic. One thing the French and I see eye-to-eye on is that steak should always be served rare or medium-rare. Steak and fries are the perfect pairing, and served with a nice glass of red makes the experience all the better and also all the more French.

Jambon-Beurre

A staple comfort food of France, ham and butter over a baguette is as quintessential as it gets, and there’s a reason it’s so popular to this day.

Do yourself a favor, and if you find yourself near Le Petit Vendome, order a jambon-beurre with Cantal cheese to do, and enjoy it in the Jardin des Tuileries down the road. An exquisite experience.

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Croissants, Pain au Chocolat, and Baguettes: All the Bread!

I can think of no French food more ubiquitous than the croissant. While all French pastries have something to offer, there’s nothing like the classic butter croissant, its flaky, rich goodness one of the best ways to start the morning.

That said, all French pastries are worth a try, and French bakeries often pride themselves on the excellence of their products: sample as many as you can while you’re there.

Escargot

Personally, I still prefer the Moroccan style of cooking snails, but French escargot is a staple. It’s a delicacy, and if you’re unfamiliar with the dish and willing to be a bit adventurous, you’re certain to be well-rewarded.

Crêpes/Galettes

As I understand it, crepes are traditionally sweet and made with wheat flour, and galettes are often savory and made with buckwheat flour. Galettes have a heartier flavor that suits savory toppings like the classic ham and Emmental cheese. My favorite crepe toppings are the simple butter and sugar combo, and I also have a friend who swears by sugar and lemon.


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Drinks

There are some classic French drinks such as the French 75 cocktail, the Kir Royale, and the ill-reputed but delightful absinthe. Personally, I find they all have their merits, but I found that the best part of Paris is getting to sample as much of Paris’s high-quality offerings as possible.

Wine

As one of the largest wine producers in the world, a trip to France is often not complete without a few glasses. There are plenty of wine bars in the city, some of my favorites being Folderol (you can buy glasses of house wine or choose from the bottles on display, paired with exquisite ice cream) and 7 by Sevenly Heart.

Coffee

Sipping outside a café on a sunny afternoon is a classic Parisian experience. And there are countless cafés with incredible coffee all throughout the city. Try as many as you can, enjoy the atmosphere and the quality espresso. You won’t regret it.

Safety Info

Paris is generally considered a very safe city, with a low violent crime rate, though pickpocketing and scams are somewhat common. Emergency numbers are 112 for all emergencies and 17 for police. Exercise normal city precautions, and be aware of your surroundings and belongings, especially in crowded areas like the metro or Sacré-Cœur, for example.

Also, I found it very comfortable as a solo female traveler. I often walked around late at night (in the 2nd, where I lived) and found it lively, safe, and well-lit.

Common Scams

Some common tactics I’ve seen in action are people approaching with clipboards either demanding money for fake charities or getting your signature as a distraction for pickpocketing.

I’ve also heard many locals warn about having your phone or bag loose on the metro. I was told to make sure I had my phone in my hand or otherwise secure, especially when the doors close, because someone could grab something quickly as the doors closed and you wouldn’t be able to chase after them.

I personally had my phone stolen while having a picnic at the Jardin du Carrousel. A man distracted us by reaching for our food and when he walked away, we realized my phone had been his actual target. You can read the full story here.

That said, I really don’t think there’s a huge need to worry about being scammed in Paris. Yes, it happens, and yes, foreign tourists are a common target, but practice normal precautions and you’ll likely be okay.


LGBTQIA+ Info

France has strong legal protections, and Paris is generally considered very safe for gay people. Le Marais (in the 3rd and 4th) is known for its gay community and history and is especially welcoming to members of the queer community.

In general, being openly gay and expressing affection (the French love PDA) should not be a problem in Paris, though standard precautions are always valid.

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Attractions

There’s so much to do and see in Paris. I’ve included a list of my favorite things I did during my time in Paris. Of course, there is no shortage of things to do and see in the city, and if you need recommendations for budget or solo travel, I made a list of my favorites here.

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Musée d’Orsay

Esplanade Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, 75007 Paris, France

Admission is free on the first Sunday of the month (though you’ll still need to book a timed slot online). If that doesn’t fit your timeline, I still highly recommend visiting d’Orsay. It’s a beautiful building –a repurposed train station– with incredible works of art, including some of the most famous works of the Impressionists.

Also, personal shout out to my favorite piece in the museum, Degas’s Marguerite de Gas and its crazy hand.



Restaurant les yeux bandés

51 R. Quincampoix, 75004 Paris, France

Dining in the Dark is an experience-based restaurant with locations all over the world, including Paris. It’s a surreal experience: you and your fellow diners are led into a completely dark room and are served a set meal by a waitstaff who are all visually impaired. (Note: you will need a reservation as diners are seated as a large group at one time.)

It’s an unnerving, unique experience to eat without knowing exactly what you’re eating. Afterwards, the staff will walk you through the menu, and you can find out if you guessed right.

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Le Café des Chats

9 Rue Sedaine, 75011 Paris, France

If you find yourself overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of the city and could use a furry friend or two to calm your nerves, look no further.

The café serves good food and drinks and takes very good care of their cats, who are all up for adoption. Pass a couple of hours in a nice, calm environment (the waiters will shush if it gets too loud for the cats) and feel your energy restored.


Bisou

15 Bd du Temple, 75003 Paris, France

Another unique dining experience, at Bisou, there’s no set menu. Instead, you tell the bartenders what you like to drink, and they craft a custom cocktail for you right there.

My first time there, the bartender heard me talk about my love of ducks and made sure to put a small rubber duck as a decoration on my drink. It was a lovely, thoughtful touch!

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Père-Lachaise Cemetery

Cimetière du Père-Lachaise 75020 Paris, France

For anyone who enjoys a bit of the macabre, the cemeteries in Paris are actually some of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. Père-Lachaise Cemetery is the most famous and is the final resting place of artists like Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison. It’s truly a very peaceful place to walk around, and it’s free and open to the public.


The Louvre

Louvre Museum, 75001 Paris, France

The Louvre needs no explanation nor introduction. The world’s most-visited art museum. Home of the Mona Lisa, the Venus de Milo, and countless other works of art. If you have any interest whatsoever in art, history, or culture, you simply have to go.

The only thing I’ll add is if you’re planning on being in the city long-term, I recommend getting a membership card. You will quickly recoup the cost in a few visits, especially if you qualify for any of the discounted youth membership cards.

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Restaurants

Throw a stone and you’ll hit a fantastic restaurant in Paris. It’s a hub of fine dining and international cuisine. You’ll find nearly every type of cuisine at every price point. With the huge number of restaurant choices, it can be overwhelming to find the right one for you.

Below are my favorite restaurants from my time in Paris. If you’re looking for fine dining suggestions, I recommend Michelin’s Paris guide.

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  • Le Relais de l’Entrecôte: Famous for its set menu of steak, frites, and a secret sauce, this restaurant serves a fabulous steak and has a great, attentive waitstaff. They don’t take reservations, so get there early to avoid a long line out the door.
  • Crêperie des Arts: A cozy crepe place with a weekday lunch deal, Crêperie des Arts has a lovely selection of sweet and savory crepes to choose from and caters to tourists and locals alike.
  • La REcyclerie: A bit far from the city center, but near the Saint-Ouen flea market, La REcyclerie is a very cool farm-to-table restaurant with incredible food and lots of outdoor seating. They are proud of their sustainable practices, and their care and effort show in every single dish.

Breakfast/coffee

  • HolyBelly: This is a classic brunch restaurant with classic breakfast options like eggs benedict, yogurt bowls, and smoothies. The waitstaff was kind and the restaurant was bright and filled with plants.
  • The French Bastards: A bakery chain with locations throughout the city, I loved every pastry I tried from the French Bastards, and their coffee isn’t bad either. It’s a great place to grab a couple of croissants before starting a busy day in the city.
  • Café Madam: A small café along Rue Saint Denis that I believe is run by a mother and daughter duo. They serve pastries and full breakfast meals, but their latte is where they shine. Get it to-go if you’re eager to start your day, but don’t skip it.
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Bars

  • Cocoön Cocktail Bar: Creative cocktails and very well-made frozen drinks at a good price point, I love Cocoön with all my heart. Go for their happy hour, and try some of their snacks if you’re feeling hungry –they’re actually quite good.
  • Folderol: An ice cream and wine bar, Folderol is quite small, but they have an impressive collection of bottles to choose from. If you don’t want to commit to a full bottle, they have house wines by the glass, which all pair nicely with their rotating ice cream flavors.
  • The 38 Bar: A classic bar with some fabulous cocktails and very friendly bartenders, it’s the sister to the 46 Bar down the street, both of which are fun and lively in the evenings.

Fast‑Food / Takeout Options

  • ichi ramen: If you’re looking for some good comfort food, I highly recommend one of the udon bowls from ichi. Their broth is delicious and the udon was just top-notch. They also have a weekday lunch deal if you want more bang for your buck.
  • Le Petit Vendôme: Known for having the best baguettes in the city, a restaurant reminiscent of a NYC deli, you can either sit down and enjoy their full-service menu (the French onion soup is very nice) or get one of their famous sandwiches to go. If you get a to-go sandwich, get the jamon beurre with Cantal cheese and pickles, trust me.
  • O’Tacos: For all of France’s renown in the culinary world, their cursed version of ‘tacos’ doesn’t get enough attention. I actually find them to be a strange comfort food: a burrito stuffed with fries and cheese sauce and your choice of protein, O’Tacos is the fast food chain across Paris that makes for a very good meal at the end of a late-night.

How To Reach Paris

In general, I recommend using the metro as much as possible when traveling into Paris. Because the traffic in Paris can be intense at any time, taxis and ride-shares can often be slower than the trains, and buses are often the least convenient way to travel. I’ve included an overview of how to reach the city center from the most common arrival destinations.

By Air

Charles De Gaulle (CDG)

Paris’s largest and busiest airport, CDG is about 16 miles/25km northeast of the city. To get to the city center you can either hire a taxi/rideshare or take the RER B train into central Paris stations like Gare du Nord, or whichever is closest to your accommodations (30-40 minutes). There are also airport buses like Roissybus available, though they are usually slower than the RER train and can often be delayed by traffic.

Paris-Orly (ORY)

This is the second-largest airport serving Paris, mostly for domestic or some EU flights. It’s about 8 miles south of the city center, and you can reach the city center either by the Orlyval shuttle to the RER B train or line 14 of the Metro (25-35 minutes).

Beauvais-Tillé (BVA)

A small airport for budget airlines like Ryanair and Wizz Air, BVA is 85 km/53 miles north of Paris. There are dedicated buses to and from BVA and Porte Maillot that take about 75-90 minutes depending on traffic. You can buy tickets for the buses online or in-person at the airport.


By Train

Gare du Nord

This is the busiest railway station in Europe, servicing most trains from Belgium, the Netherlands, etc., and is where the Eurostar from London arrives. Depending on where you’re staying in Paris, you can possibly walk from the station (my place was 30 minutes by foot, though I don’t fully recommend doing it with a ton of luggage). There are also direct connections to the RER B, the Metro 4 and 5 lines, and buses.

Gare de l’Est and Gare de Lyon

These are smaller train stations that are also connected to metro lines. You can generally reach the city center from either in about 10-15 minutes via the metro or RER lines.


By Bus

Gare de Bercy Seine (Bercy Bus Station)

This is the main bus terminal in Paris. It’s connected to metro lines 6 and 14, and you can reach most places in the city center within 15-25 minutes.

Paris Gallieni International Bus Station (Porte de Bagnolet)

This bus terminal mostly services routes between Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, and Eastern Europe. It’s connected to Line 3 of the metro and takes about 20-30 minutes to reach central Paris using the trains.

Porte Maillot

Porte Maillot is well connected to the Paris transit network via Metro Line 1 and the RER C. You can reach most parts of the city within 10-25 minutes using public transport.

Where to Stay in Paris

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A Guide to Paris’s Arrondissements

I stayed in the 2nd Arrondissement both times I was in Paris, and I loved it. The 1st and 2nd are the beating heart of the city, and it’s always lively even well into the evening. Central to many museums (especially the Louvre) and other landmarks, I do highly recommend staying in the center if it works for your budget, though if you’re someone who prefers a quieter area, you might prefer somewhere a little further out.

Other neighborhoods have different pros and cons. The 5th (the Latin Quarter) is famous for its nightlife and food scene. The 7th is near the Eiffel Tower and is a bit more residential.

The only areas of the city I would possibly suggest avoiding are parts of the 18th and 19th. Though I personally had no issues, some people report feeling uncomfortable, particularly near the train station at night. These areas do tend to have more affordable accommodations, however, so if you do decide to stay there, it’s good to be aware of possible trade-offs.

For a more in-depth look at Paris’s neighborhoods (arrondissements), the Paris Insider’s Guide has a thoughtful overview.

Getting Around Paris

Public Transport

Public transport in Paris is generally affordable and has become much more convenient for foreign visitors in recent years. For most people, you can buy tickets for the bus, tram, or train via the app IDF Mobilités, and iPhone users can add them to their Apple wallet.

One of the best parts of the Paris public transport system is that there’s a flat rate for most metro rides, so you can take the RER train the whole way to Versailles for the same price as a trip to Champs-de-Mars.

If you’re in Paris long-term, I highly recommend taking advantage of the affordable public transport that lets you explore so many areas just outside of the city.

Metro

I hate the Paris metro. As someone who has taken public transport in many cities in many countries, I have never found a metro so frustrating as Paris’s.

That said, it’s changed a lot in recent years, and for the most part is usable. It’s just if you so happen to get caught at a station lacking any signage or encounter the random line closures of the summer season that the metro can be your new archnemesis. But I digress.

Just be aware that you will need to scan your ticket when you enter a station and often when you exit as well (though not always). Not having a valid ticket can incur a fine if you’re stopped by ticket inspectors (I did not personally see this happen while in Paris, but I’ve heard it does).

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Buses

I actually did not use the bus system in Paris during my stay as it was always easier to take the metro or walk. That said, you can buy bus tickets and multi-day passes via the IDF app.


Private Transport

I cannot speak to this personally, but I’ve heard renting a car in Paris can be very frustrating. I imagine that as in most major cities, parking in Paris is a costly nightmare.

Uber and Bolt are widely-used rideshare apps in the city. They can be relatively affordable, though there’s surge pricing.

Traffic in Paris can sometimes be a horror show, so make sure if you plan to use either a private car or a rideshare that you factor in extra time for any reservations so you aren’t late.

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Walking

Paris is a fairly walkable city. It’s massive, so if you’re trying to go from the 14th arrondissement to the 18th on foot, you might have a long way to go, but in general it’s very pedestrian-friendly, especially in the center.

I primarily walked during my time living in Paris. It’s a great way to explore the city, and I’ve found it to often be more reliable than driving or trains that get delayed or crowded during peak travel hours.


Cycling

I shall set aside my personal gripes with cyclists to say that, for better or worse, biking is a very popular mode of transport in Paris. Most major streets have dedicated bike lanes, and you’ll find bike rental spots scattered throughout the city. They are a very convenient and affordable way to get around the city if you’re willing to sacrifice your dignity and moral character.

Survival Language

Below are some basic greetings and useful phrases in French. France, and Paris in particular, has a reputation for switching to English when speaking with non-fluent French speakers, which is fair and, in my experience, generally true. That said, the initial attempt to use French, “s’il vous plaît” and “merci,” is still generally polite and well-received.

FAQs

When is the best time to visit Paris?

In terms of weather and tourist crowds, April–June and September–November are probably ideal. The summer in Paris tends to be hot and crowded, particularly in August when it’s summer break and many places are closed for the month.

If you can bear the cold, I would say that Paris in the wintertime has its own charm. It’s usually calmer, and what you might lose out on the city pastime of sitting outside and people-watching in the sun (too cold!), I would argue you make up for with things like the Christmas market and a somewhat-less crowded city.

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How much cash should I carry, and can I use cards?

To my memory, I did not use a single euro in my entire time in Paris. I had exactly 2 euro in my wallet, and I never had to pull it out once. That said, I’m sure there are a few cash-only shops, and there are places that have a minimum card spending requirement (for example, Le Petit Vendôme) where having cash to pay for a smaller purchase is generally useful.

But if you’re like me and hate carrying physical cash if you don’t need to, it’s entirely possible to get through a stay in Paris without it.


What’s the best way to get around Paris?

Walking. You could not pay me to drive a car in Paris, nor to cycle in it. When forced by circumstance (even I don’t like walking 2 hours one-way when there’s a 15-minute train option), I will take the metro, though I generally find it to be unnecessarily complicated and annoying.

For people with mobility issues or for whom walking so much just isn’t a option, there are accessible metro stations. Accessibility varies considerably by station and line, though newer lines and many RER stations offer better accessibility features. Ride-share is also an option, though often during peak travel hours, the traffic is so bad that it is often faster to walk/use other methods.



Can I drink tap water in Paris?

Yes, tap water is safe to drink throughout the country. Make sure if you are ordering it from a café/restaurant that you specify you want tap water (une carafe d’eau), as some places will bring you bottled water by default.


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What souvenirs are unique to Paris?

Some good souvenirs to get from Paris specifically would be food items like local wine, honey, chocolate, butter, etc.

If you’re worried about traveling home with perishables, some places, like La Grande Épicerie de Paris, will vacuum seal purchases so you can bring them home safely.

Also Shakespeare and Company has exclusive editions of books and some other unique souvenirs if you’re a book lover and want to check that out.


Is tipping expected in restaurants or Cafés?

Generally, no, tipping isn’t mandatory. However, it is polite and even customary to round up your bill for good service, as well as to tip 1-2 euros for help with bags, etc. That said, it is not uncommon to be prompted to tip 10, 15, even 20% in certain restaurants, often those that cater to international crowds.

2 thoughts on “The Ultimate Paris Travel Guide”

  1. Can’t wait to use this guide on my next trip to Paris! Lovely photos, and great advice, can’t wait to see where you go next!

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